Our Beloved Ahu'ula in De Young Museum San Francisco

Here I am fresh from an early morning bike ride with my cousin in the lovely city of San Francisco!

I was fortunate enough to be there two weeks ago during the grand opening of a new exhibit, Royal Hawaiian Featherwork: Na Hulu Ali'i. 

The free community day started with an opening oli by Marques Hanalei Marzan. Then Na Lei Hulu I Ka Wekiu, under the direction of Kumu Hula Patrick Makuakane performed some traditional mele and hula.

In song and dance they honored Hawaii O' Keawe, Mele no ka Manu o'o about the Kiamanu bird catchers, and a mele about Kamehameha's conquest of Hawaii island. As well as other dances using men and women dancers. The last performance used the largest amount of dancers all holding their own kahili that was individually hand made by themselves in preparation for this event.

I was surprised to see so many kanaka in the crowd that either came to see the 'Ahu'ula. Or they were residents on the mainland that came to show appreciation. Possibly family members of those involved with the opening ceremony. I shouldn't have been so suprized though because there are many many people throughout the world with connections to Hawaii. All I can say is although I was the first to yell when the dancing began, mine's was not the only "cheehoo" in the crowd.

Inside there was a table where visitors could create their own feather work using multicolored craft supplies and feathers. They were actually bundled in traditional ways. There was only enough to make one little hair piece in the size of a small boutonniere. It gave one the appreciation to imagine making thousands of them to form a Kahili or Ahu'ula in the times of old.

In Wilsey Court there was live music performed by  Owana Ka'ohelelani Mahaelani-Rose Salazar

There were two gift shops set up in the main building with Hawaiian themed memorabilia. Here's Chad and I checking out some of the books they had for sale. Of course you can borrow most of those from the public library back at home. I ended up buying a commemorative shirt of the event. Kind of like waling around with a Merrie Monarch shirt but more rare!  

Finally, inside of the Koret Auditorium was a talk with Marques Hanalei Marzan. Entitled, "Na Hulu Hiwahiwa o ko Hawaii Pae 'Aina: The Cherished Ones of Hawaii."

Marques began with the types of feathers collected from birds for traditional featherwork. The I'iwi and 'Apapane were chosen to be used for their red feathers and the 'o'o and mamo were caught for their yellow feathers as well as the o'o black feathers.  The kinolau of these birds were related to both Ku and Lono. So were the woven basket type framing, 'Ie'ie used in Mahiole helmets and Olona in 'Ahu'ula capes. 

Marques stated something amazing to realize. That each bundle of feather work had a chant or prayer into each weave. So aside from the maker creating hundreds if not thousands of small bundles to be woven in. There were also the same amount of prayers for the particular person that the precious article was being carefully crafted for.

These birds were captured by the cunning Kiamanu for their feathers up high in the native ohia forests. With a sticky gum that would trap the legs on a branch or with large nets that would ensnare the birds in flight.

 Shad Kane once told me a touching story of how the Kiamanu were one of the only ranks in ancient Hawaiian society to be able to converse with both commoners (because that essentially they were) and ali'i. They were also skilled at climbing to high precipices to reach the dwelling of certain birds. 

Kiamanu of Kamhemeha were said to have been given the task to take down the defensive cannons at the Pali Notches during the Battle of Nuuanu on Oahu. Because of their climbing skill

My middle name is Kaimanu and I have always thought about giving my name a twist if I have a child...

This image is a small portion of, ka'ei kapu o Liloa. A scarf that is said to have been associated with Chief Liloa. The famous Ali'i and ruler of the Moku of Hawaii Island. Kamakau starts his book of Ruling Ali'i of Hawaii with Liloa's era. Liloa fathered his son Umi from a beautiful commoner he met at a bathing place during one of his escapades. He left her relics of his nobility and requested to name a boy Umi, in order for his son Umi to be identified by him when he was of age. Umi later confronted Liloa by entering his sacred living space in Waipio and before being killed by Liloa's guards. He sat on Liloa's lap and exclaimed that he was Umi his long lost son. They shared a touching reunion. Through Umi's own perils he eventually inherited Umi's kingdom and rule of Hawaii island. Liloa becoming the patriarch of Hawaii Chiefs from Waipio that connected them to the ancients. Liloa's grandmother and his wife's mother were of high ranking Oahu decent from the Ewa district.

Liloa's scarf was not on display at this event. It remains behind closed doors at Bishop Museum. It is unlike any other featherwork from ancient times. As it is feathered on both sides . At the ends of the scarf are pictured teeth. Both human and fish teeth, the later being specifically from the Hilu fish. The hilu fish is said t have been used because hilu could signify a cared for beloved child.

Mo'olelo touched on to science once with this scarf of Liloa. Bishop Museum allowed some of the feathers to be carbon dated and the results coordinated with the estimated dates of Liloa's lifetime in the 1500s...

This 'Ahu'ula was Kamehameha I's and is full of yellow said to represent Hawaii Island because the Mamo bird that supplies the yellow feather are only found on Hawaii Island...

This 'Ahu'ula is said to have been for Kiwala'o. The son and heir to Kalani'opu'u's kingdom. Kiwala'o was the ruler and Kamehameha inherited care of the god Kukailimoku. Kamehameha fought for total rule of the kingdom with the help of his close advisors. and one of them, Keeaumoku cut the throat of Kiwala'o during the great battle of Moku'ohai 

 The 'Ahu'ula below is said to have been spotted by Queen Emma during her visit to England. She saw it in a London shop window and decided to purchase it for $500 and repatriate it back to the Hawaiian nation...

As modern times merged with the old ways of Hawaii. Different types of featherwork were created using different types of bird feathers.

This cape belonged to Kauikeaouli, Kamehameha III!

Sometimes I just want to stare at the collars of each cape and imagine it's bearer in it...

Kalani'opu'u's Mahiole. Being the ruler of Hawaii during the upbringing of Pai'ea, Kamehameha I. He is also connected to Oahu through his father Peleioholani. A ruler of Oahu that is said to have named his son after the flat shaped Lei Niho Palaoa necklaces of Oahu and Kauai island. While Maui and Hawaii island had hook or Ku tongue shaped lei niho palaoa...

Kaumuali'i's 'Ahu'ula

Kekuaokalani's 'Ahu'ula. He fought the armies of Liholiho, Kamehameha II led by Kalanimoku. In one of the last civil wars within the Hawaiian nation. He died in battle as well as his brave and honorable wife Manono along with their followers. Against the fall of the old kapu system in Kuamo'o, Hawaii. A sacred wahi pana site with burials, now being threatened with development...

This cape differs from others because of the dark feathers sewn in flaring upwards instead of most other preserved examples with the feathers going in a consistent downward angle.

I was more interested in the realization of stories I knew through visualization of the cherished character's preserved artifacts. There were feather lei on display and more modern designed capes and hats that looked more like British coats. I wish I could have captured images of them as well. But I didn't have a lot of time to be at the museum and my phone ran out of batteries. In fact, most of these pictures were taken with my wife's iphone4 and when her phone drained I asked my cousin to send me the pics she took that day. Big mahalo to Marge and Chad Wong, some of my family in the bay!

If you missed this event and are like me, and like to see preserved artifacts from our history. Don't fret! The featherwork are very fragile and the fact that they should and will remain behind closed doors in protected environments is a good thing. On Oahu you can visit the Bishop Museum to see some of them still on display. Umi's ulu maika stone is there in a display case on the second floor balcony at Hawaiian Hall. 

At Iolani Palace there is the legendary house stone of Liloa. That he carried on his own back. Sitting in the lawn next to the old archives building...