Waialua to Waimea

Back in Waialua for a discovery ride on my bike!

At the bottom of the winding section into Waialua, behind the general store, alongside Kaukohahua stream, was a heiau and akua stone related to Pele legends. The area was also used as a cemetery for Hawaiians toward the late 1800's. A grove was planted over it and overgrowth hides any sign of the site #203 in McAllister's survey of Oahu.

A large akua stone was located in the water, at the mouth of Anahulu River. Which had threatened to damage glass bottom boats crossing over it during low tides. So it was moved or taken out of the water...

I have no idea which one it is or If it's even still in the area.

Just outside of Haleiwa town, Kawailoa is Oku'a pond. Laniwahine was the mo'o woman of this area. Mullet were said to be of a different color here. In the story of Oahunui, the ali'i that acquired a taste for human flesh by his cannibal neighbors living near Helemano. Sent his sisters husband, Lehuanui to gather fish for him. While Oahunui slain and ate his niece and nephew....

Further north, a bit past Punanui Point. on the mauka side of Kamehameha Hwy. Are a few cattle pens that mark a highly concentrated area of old stone structures. This stone is what I suspect to be the Frog stone that was pointed out by locals to the first ranch owners as a sacred Akua stone. Frogs must have been a somewhat later term to describe this stone. Since frogs were virtually unknown to the islands long ago. Although it does help when trying to locate it presently. It appears to have more of a lantern platform. Like others known around the island.

Just a few yards toward Waimea are more stone structures that could be mistaken as a pile of stones. Upon closer inspection they are all arranged in a peculiar order. Many stone walls are scattered throughout a small rise on the plain. Some enclosing smaller sections and others gathered into a flat alter like platform toward the center. Cow dung littered the area and now no one would suspect this to be Kahokuwelowelo Heiau (*update this is suspected to be Iliilikea Heiau as Jan Becket mentioned). One of the first indicators to a native Hawaiian that you were entering the domain of the Kahuna class. Commoners never approached this area and further toward Waimea. More and more structures designed for the use of Kahuna are to be found...

This stone seemed like the center of the Heiau and may have been an alter of some sort. 

Heiau for Kahuna always need a fresh water source and this one would have had one here at this well. 

It was about a 30ft drop to the bottom. Which looked as green as a rainforest in this otherwise dry area at the surface.

I finally made my way to Waimea, but not after trying to find Kupopolo Heiau. Kaopulupulu, the last kahuna of the land of Oahu, was said to have been based at that heiau. He also stopped over at Kahokuwelowelo before his doomed journey to meet with Kahahana. Which would lead to the death of Kaopulupulu and his son. By the command of the last Oahu Ali'i Kahahana. Resulting in the Oahu dynasty to lose a connection to the land.

I could not find a trail that would lead me to where I knew the Heiau was. I did find another path that took me toward some burial caves just outside of Waimea Bay mistakenly. This one was littered with broken glass and even had a fluorescent Hi Viz shirt hanging on the wall...

I noticed a barrier up on a higher cliff section just up the roots of the tree. I tried to climb it and take a better look. To what opened up to what was about a 12ft x 12ft outcropping. Just then I figured if I fell and knocked my head. I'd probably never be found by anyone for some time, and decided to climb back down.

Rock walls hidden in the over growth.

I saw an old image of this cave where a haole man is sitting inside and carrying two skulls. Another image I found explained that it was sealed with bones inside. I'm unsure if all of the bones in other caves were stored in here. 

This cave is right next door to the last. Also containing broken glass but also very old looking matting on the cave floor and some woven fabric of modern design.

The path switchbacks uphill after the last two caves but I was hoping it would eventually lead downhill to the Heiau. I stood at the edge of the cliff and noticed the platform I was standing on was also a very high rock wall...

In the distance down the cliff. I finally notice Kupolopolo Heiau. Well preserved and hidden in the brush. I plan to find a respectful way to approach the Heiau. Without exposing it to over use.

Late afternoon and I finally get to Waimea Bay. The last time I rode here I saw a man landscaping this outcrop and told him I would research the area and tell him the name of the pohaku within it. He wasn't there this time but the area looked better and better every time I come back.

This is suspected to be a fishing shrine ko'a named Kehuohapu'u and it formally enclosed an akua stone named Kaneaukai. A stone in which its name is also mentioned at the first heiau in this post all the way back at the general store in Waialua town...

I must admit after a couple of "refreshments" at Waimea and a poke bowl from Foodland. I didn't feel like riding back up to Wahiawa. I jumped on the bus and made sure to get off at Mililani so I could bomb down the gulch and out into the comfort of my side of the island again.

While one the bus thinking about a bunch of places I still have yet to visit somehow. My mind drifted back toward the Ali'i Ma'ilikukahi. He was credited for solidifying the land divisions of districts and was said to be able to point out important features on the entire island. His time and his offspring were marked by justly and peaceful rule. Which allowed Oahu to almost pinnacle in abundance. Compared to the past and even future rulers. Born at Kukaniloko, crowned at Kapukapuakea, and later moving the kingdom to what is now known as Waikiki. He was a true product of Oahu.

Here just before the final down hill to my district. In Kipapa, Ma'ilikukahi defended Oahu. Against a raid from the island of Hawaii. Intending on claiming some battle fame or "cashing in" on Oahu's newly established abundance. Ma'ilikukahi utterly destroyed all involved in the attempt. Making land marks with the slain and naming them after their leaders. Proving to the other islands rival chiefs that Oahu was well organized and powerful during his time...

Musuem Tuesday

 

I feel like my last trip to the north shore was cut short and I wanted to make my way all of the way to the present border of Waialua, Waimea. Hopefully I can ride back out here on my next day off. 

I'll post this older image from another visit I did in the past. A revived heiau in honor of the god Lono at the beginning of Waimea Falls Park. The park is kind of an open living museum...

 

Waialua

Yesterday I took a drive to the north shore with my fiancé, her sister and nephew. I've been trying to research as much as I could on this district beforehand. Especially since my go to information guy, John Prime mentioned he was researching this area as well. This ones for you bud!

Waialua is a vast district with many sites to see. Nothing that can be done all at once, in one day

Waialua is supposed to be one of the earlier populated places on the island of Oahu. The royal families living up high in Helemano could actually hear the ocean from were they dwelled. The art of Lua and war was practiced in the so called Valley of Spears, Keawawaihe. Which leads to Schofield. Where war is still practiced today.  The cannibal chief Aikanaka, said to have came from far lands in the pacific. Set up his base here for a short time. Until the population figured them out and disposed of them. A platter where he prepared his victims is said to have been hidden by Kamehameha youth. In order to hide that dark page in Oahu history. I like the story that he wasn't Hawaiian, and that's enough for me. 

The land was and still is great for farming. Powerful ali'i and kahuna left their marks in history here long ago. Some from far away, bringing their own culture and secretly melding it with those already set before. Laniakea hints to southern Polynesian roots from Raiatea. As well as the location of Kapukapuakea and it's counter part in the Society islands Taputapuatea...

 

Up an old dirt road in Mokuleia headed toward Pu'u Kaupakuhale. Is a Catholic Monastery and some very private homes now. But in the past there were a couple of heiau and also some caves. That were mentioned by McAllister and Thrum.

 

The road becomes paved near the mouth of Makaleha Valley and leads all of the way up to the last house. Where a gate will stop any further entry by vehicle. Once we entered the church property two loose guard dogs came rushing toward our car and caused quite a stir. I spotted one person outside but no one approached our vehicle or came to see what the dogs were all worked up for. I have seen black and white images of the heiau in a book titled Pana Oahu and read that the church placed a water tower at the base and even partly on a section of the heiau. So I knew exactly where to look...

This image and the one below are the best shots I could get of the stone walls of Kalakiki Heiau under the trees. I was still inside of the car and quite flustered by the barking dogs. Hopefully I can return once day invited and take a walk around.

Kalakiki Heiau has a connection with the shark god of Waialua, Kalakiki. Which was represented in a large pohaku counterpart directly out in the ocean. Which was said to emit phosphorescent lights! Homes built near these places of worship were supposed to restrain from having doors facing the hills. Or sickness and death would enter.

Onehana Heiau is also associated with this area but was not found when McAllister did his survey. Both however have accounts of human sacrifice at them and McAllisters diagram of the heiau list two pits on it's northen corner large enough to fit a person...

 

 

 

Pu'uiki Cemetery is the final resting place of many Waialua Plantation workers. The people that helped open the gateway of travel from Honolulu to Waialua by rail.

 

Looking across Kaiaka Bay from the western side.

 

Here or nearby this area in Kaiaka Park, on the eastern side side of Kaiaka Bay in Paalaa Kai. Was a famous heiau named Kapukapuakea. Ma'ilikukahi was said to have been taken here by the kahuna of his time and made high chief of the entire island. Like a coronation ceremony of old.

Kapukapuakea Heiau was said to be linked to Kuiliola Heiau on Kaneilio Point in Waianae and Suggesting the use of sea navigation as well as southern Pacific roots. As Taputapuatea, it's counterpart in the society islands and Kuiliola was said to have been founded by a traveler from Kahiki...

 

 

Kapukapuakea Heiau was constructed of mostly wood. Although the beach is full of drift wood nowadays, it was Kauila wood that was used for the heiau.

Pohaku Lanai situated in the center of Kaiaka Park. It is said to have been used as a lookout point for schools of fish in the ocean. Once spotted, the watchman would beat the stone with a wooden pole and echo the signal to bring the nets. Legends would have it that Pohaku Lanai floated there from Tahiti. But reason would have one imagine that this was once where the sea level was at ages ago. That slowly carved out this curious limestone formation. 

We stopped for lunch at Haleiwa (which would end up cutting my journey short later, because when people eat. They like go home already) and I entertained my soon to be nephew in-law by helping him up this preserved Pohaku at Storto's and letting him jump off of it into my arms. Many, Many times over. This was the rock that Storto's mentioned they could not move during their remodeling of the porch area...

Between the Haleiwa court house and Storto's is this large pohaku and another smaller one that looks like a shark fin. The former must have been placed here within the last few years because although I have noticed the large one. I'm sure I would remember that one. Last time I saw it on top of the other. 

" Puupilo Heiau seaward of Haleiwa Courthouse, Paaloa. A slight elevation of land with an old coconut palm on the side is all that remains of this heiau."

-McAllister Arch. of Oahu

Kepuwai Heiau was once located here. Beside the church. It's stone used in the church construction. An all to familiar story in history as religions shift but keep important sites into their own.  

Loko Ea pond once contained makaha gates to the ocean. Although it was a fresh water pond.

Here at Puaena Point. Elani was the father of the last Ali'i Aimoku of Oahu, Kahahana. His body was left to decay out in the open by order of Kahekili II. Like Ma'ilikukahi, Kahahana was the only other Ali'i to be voted as ruler of the island by other chiefs. After his battles with many famous warriors on both sides against Kahekili II. Kahahana lost and hid for almost two years in the mountains with his wife. Before he was finally found and executed near Moanalua's Pu'u kapu. His wife escaped to Kauai possibly with his body. Elani however became a part of the Waipio Rebellion. A last ditch effort to regain Oahu from it's Maui based rulers. By killing Kahekili II. The rebellion was foiled and the anger of Kahekili II was great. Which caused the death of most of the population of Oahu. Man, woman, and child were slaughtered. The bodies of the conspirators were placed out in the open. To remind the population of what would happen if anyone refused the right of the Maui rule over Oahu. Some say at the House of Bones,

 

Elani's body decomposed to the sad disgust of the people that lived nearby. Kahakakeu Kanaka was the name given to the area, land where the man was placed. Maeaea Kupaoa was the name of the shores across Waialua Bay at Haleiwa beach, meaning overwhelming smell...

Museum Tuesday

I see faces...

 

Sorry guys, I've been busy just plain riding my bike to the same old spots lately. On my free time. I've just started attending a class that shares mo'olelo and I will have new things to share with you soon! I'll try my best to never have Museum Tuesdays next to each other on the timeline, Aloha!

Museum Monday

Happy King Kamehameha Day!

 

An Ipu Kuha, spittoon. Containing human teeth. It belonged to King Kamehameha and his favorite wife Kaahumanu.

 I read about Kaahumanu's summer home in Manoa while researching my last post. It was said that it was the first place where goldfish and guava were brought to the island. The guava was kapu to eat by anyone else, but birds would come and eat them. So the birds themselves spread guava around the island chain.

 

"... Realizing that the end was near, Kaahumanu asked to be taken to Pukaomaomao, her mountain home far up in Manoa Valley...

The King, his sister, other members of the alii and many retainers had already arrived at Pukaaomaomao and had dressed the large grass house for the dying queen's last homecoming. The walls of the main room had been hung with ropes of sweet maile and decorated with lehua blossoms and great stalks of fragrant mountain ginger.

The couch upon which Kaahumanu was to rest had been prepared with loving care. Spread first with sweet-scented maile and ginger leaves, it was covered with a golden velvet coverlet. At the head and foot stood towering feather kahilis. Over a chair nearby was draped the Kamehameha feather cloak which had been worn by Kaahumanu since the monarch's death."

-The Magnificent Matriarch, pp 270,272

(Kaahumanu died June 5, 1832)



Manoa

Manoa Valley is full of historical Hawaiian sites and covering the whole valley will take repeated visits. From what I have gathered so far, Manoa was a land for both commoners and chiefs. Divided from west, Manoa Alii and east, Manoa Kanaka. By a small rocky knoll at the head of the valley. One could draw a straight line to Pu'u Manoa in the back of the valley from that knoll. It makes sense, since the flow of Manoa stream starts on the western side and works it's way east. I'll always have that romanticized painting of the valley by Enoch Wood Perry Jr. in my mind.

Many legends also have evolved out of this area and it's old times and inhabitants. About the gods that dwelt in this valley. Connecting themselves with certain places in story.

I'm hardly a qualified historian and far from knowing any facts about the geology of the island, but amongst recorded volcanic events in this island's history. The "Sugar Loaf Flow" is said to be of the most recent. A small flow set loose sometime after the Koolau Caldera collapsed and fell into the ocean. During the event known as the Nuuanu Landslide. It, being the long hill on the east side of the valley also known as St. Louis Heights. Surprisingly, occurring around the time of the Black Point eruption of Diamond Head and all other Leeward eruptions.

Moiliili was once submerged by the ocean and has limestone pockets that have created large underground crevasses. Stories go that residents in Moiliili could overturn large rocks on their property to catch mullet by hook and line. Far inland and away from the shore. In 1935 the Star Bulletin published a detailed map showing the cave system in relation to the streets above. Loko Maui being under University Ave. near the freeway; Kaioliu Pond at Moiliili Park.  Willow's Restaurant fountain was originally fed by the water in an underground cave. Possibly Kumulae Spring. When another property nearby cemented it's foundation. The channels that led water there were cut off. Mr. Hausten, in which Thompson St. was later renamed after, found many artifacts on his property. Suggesting that many people were using the spring as a water source in history.

I watched an episode on the History Channel in which Don Wildman guided by a local, entered into the cave system. It didn't take long for me to analyze the footage and surmise where the drainage tunnel that leads to it is located. A few images can be found online of brave investigators spelunking into the karst.

This is as far as I got but someday I might suit up for the undertaking...

 

At Kamanele Park is a small rocky knoll which I suspect is the Manoa dividing hill between commoners and Alii lands in the old days. A story goes that the Ali'i waste was actually buried on the commoners side.

Kamehameha had a dog he received from the ship The Eleanor. Named Poki or Boki. That dwelled in Manoa. Possibly at this hill.



 

Jumping all of the way to the back of Manoa Valley is Manoa Falls. Waiakeakua, where the gods Kane and Kanaloa pursued an akua wahine named Kamehaikana. It was the water of ali'i and anyone else gathering water here would have to be ready for any sign to immediately  prostrate themselves.