Maui O Pi'ilani

My wife and I had some spare adult time again and couldn't help but return to Maui. We headed straight to Lahaina and ended up spending the whole day there. Aside from hunting for poke and hanging out at Maui Brewing. I found myself back on the shores of Lahaina soaking me feet where the fresh water of Kaua'ula meet the ocean.

I actually wanted to see the archaeological work currently being done at Moku'ula. They are digging pits to locate the supporting walls of Moku Hinia fishpond and the island that it surrounded, Moku'ula. Sadly I arrived when there was no work being done and that entire area that is preserved as Moku'ula is now surrounded by a gate. Most likely to keep the digs undisturbed and so that no one wonders in and falls into a hole.

The good thing is that I was able to see Mr Ke'eaumoku Kapu again! This time he was with his extended family and friends at Aikane O Maui next to Moku'ula.  I hung out for a few hours since he invited us to attend his weekly class on Thursday night. It was pretty awesome and reminded me of the class I try to attend weekly back on Oahu with Kumu Kaipo'i. 

My wife was with me and she was a little nervous since she's never been to a meeting like this before. Especially when we had to do our own introduction in this way:

O' (father's ful name) ko'u makua kane

O' (mother's full maiden name) ko'u makua hine

Ua noho pulawa

Hanau ia o' (your name full name) he (kane or wahine)

O' wah iho no o' (your full name)

On this night Mr Kapu was focusing on the importance of keeping the knowledge of Lahaina alive. Everyone there had a connection with Lahaina and he wanted everyone to be the next generation to share the truths about this important district. He shared a PowerPoint presentation with the ancient names of the areas within Lahaina.

Mr. Kapu  says Lele O Leina was the old name for "Lahaina" as a leaping place. Similar to those found on other islands where the souls of the dead drift off to their aumakua or wonder into eternity. On Oahu we have Kaena Point and Leinono or Leilono at Red Hill, Moanalua. Even Aotearoa has a Cape Reinga, being on the opposite side of Hawaii's leaping places. Instead on the northern most point of New Zealand. As if they traveled vise versa in the afterlife...

Mauna Kahalawai- waters meet

Mauna Kawahine- Triangle of pacific direct west

Mo'o bosom fell and formed Rapa Nui 

One moai on knees facing Hawaii.
This was another link that Mr. Kapu related to us with Polynesia.

Mo'o ahia- Scorched back lizard protector of Lahaina 

Moku'ula- alter antenna of lizard
I hear antenna being used a lot in Kaipo'i's class as well. It is as if prayer at heiau could turn them on like an antenna. An action only a the highest of ali'i could perform. Unless another was guided by the gods to do likewise.

Pa'upa'u- mentioned in, "He Mele" by Kamakea Fornander Hwn antiq.

Puu kahili-hill of the standard. 
I was excited to finally know exactly where Kahili was. This was the ancient fortress of Lahaina during war. 

Kaua'ula - red rain sacred duality

Moku hinia- fat fishpond

Mr. kapu mentioned that as compared to other island with rock wall fishponds that protrude into the ocean from the shore. Maui used inland fishponds.

Manawai,puuolilioe,piilani 3 auwai

Original street names:

Shaw St. - Alanui ka mamo

Front St- Alanui ka mo'i

Na hono a Piilani -Alanui o Piilani 

Alanui-Nahienaena way- luakini

Alanui Hoapili

Prison st- Alanui Papu

Hau'ola stone kiawahine baby made into an Akua kalaahiena was the last Piilani born there.

Lahainaluna-Alanui panahewa

Dickenson-alanui lahainaluna

Kalima a Piilani - barrier reef

Auau channel

Uo Surf spot-break wall Alii surf

Pu island- summons, was in front of harbor

The following day we headed to Kihei and had time to visit Kalani Heiau

This district has evidence of the last volcanic activity on Maui.

The next day we headed up to the Kula way to pick strawberries and taste goat cheese. After having lunch at Ulupalakua Ranch, we finally headed to Hana via "the back way". I have to admit that I had some anxiety leading up to this drive and was fearing for the worse. The normal Hana Hwy. route is already a challenge for most (most passengers that ride with me, my wife more than likely).

I gained an attraction to this route because of a speech I heard on Bishop Museum's YouTube account from Pat Kirch. That in turn got me to read his book, "Kuaaina Kahiko: Life and Land in Ancient Kahikinui, Maui." All of this came about while delving back into Mo'ikeha and La'amaikahiki research from my last few blog entries. 
You see La'a did come to Hawaii and when he left. He is said to have came by the way of Maui and Kaho'olawe. Possibly establishing signs of navigation back to Kahiki. Such as a Pānānā, sighting wall facing the ocean with a notch in it. This notch lines up with a pokahu near the shore and that in turn lines up with the southern cross in the night sky. As a guide to follow south by sea to the homeland of La'a. 

Another phrase that Pat Kirch mentions is an old proverb by Pukui,"when the wili wili blooms the sharks bite." Kirch relates this to the collecting of the ho'okupu offering being ready to give to the chiefs during the makahiki. Otherwise there would be severe punishment to the people of the entire ahupua'a . In Kahikinui the taxed offering to the chiefs would have been uala, sweet potato. Which was very wisely farmed in such a dry arid land during ancient times.

The Wiliwili has a connection to Pacific travel because it is one of the only deciduous plants in Hawaii. As it will drop their leaves just before winter. A strange connection with La'a is that at Hawea Heiau in east Oahu. There actually was an old wiliwili tree similar to the size of these. La'a is said to have brought the drum Hawea from Kahiki which eventually was kept at Hawea Heiau...

Sadly I could not find the opportunity to stop and search around in Kahikinui because of the narrow roads. By the time I pulled over to look at the scenery we were already nearing Kaupo. I stopped at a little lunch truck selling coffee and snacks. I asked the two local women if they knew any mo'olelo of Kahikinui and they suggested that I contact Hawaiian Homelands for permission to visit some of the wahi pana there. One of them knew of Kirch's book and the pānānā wall.

Finally we got to Hana in the afternoon with time to visit the Hasagawa Store for drinks and food to cook for dinner, during our one night stay at a cabin right next to the bay!

I woke up early with the first rays of light and told my wife I has going to hike to the top of Ka'uiki Hill, and left her in bed since I wasn't sure what to expect out of the hike. The lovely lady we were staying with grew up in Hana, and told me exactly how to get to the top, and how in the old days one of the fishermen would hold out a flag to let the town know the fish where in the bay, like a school akule. She also mentioned that during the war there was a lookout stationed on top of the hill and he had a very large dog that could be seen from her house.

When I eventually got up to the top of the hill I was a little let down because there were absolutely no signs that pointed out to me that reflected its ancient and glorious past. Some pohaku were used in creating the marker for the military and I was left to wonder what they could have originated as....

There was a little pit in the ground next to the marker. It would have been the absolute center of the the hill up top and again I wondered what it was for. 

There was an opening in the trees that overlooked the town. So I called my wife on the phone and asked if she could see me waving on the hill. She must have been half awake still and it didn't work out like the old lady's story of seeing a dog up here. 

Take a look at my other post for stories of this beloved hill.

"Aia I Ka'uiki ka eke leta a ka makani

At Ka'uiki is the mailbag of the wind

Kahi paialewa ia mai la e ka lau awa

Being tossed about by the heavy black rain

Huli ka nalu o ke anini I ka makani

Facing is the surf of Anini to the windward

I ho'ohuli no a huli I ka wai O' Punahoa

Facing so as to head for the water of Punahoa"

-Fornander Collection of Hawaiian Folk-lore Volume V Part III "A Story of Ka'uiki"

Imagine occupying this hill back in the old days and seeing the ocean full of an apposing fleet of canoe coming to take everything from you...

Before I made my way down Ka'uiki. I took the time to do the protocols of visiting a sacred place. I entered and left with only positive intentions in my mind, sat down on an outcrop overlooking  Kaihalulu Bay, and uttered oli that I had learned from Kaipo'i.

I also spoke a new oli that I learned during Mr. Kapu's class. 

After our long drive from Hana back toward Kahalu'u. We took a stop over at Native Intelligence and then I decided to end our Maui trip with a dip in Iao stream like always..

Naoneala'a

Story One:

Some time during the 13th century...

La'amaikahiki son of Mo'ikeha during the voyaging era. His father Mo'ikeha was the second of three grandsons of the first ruler of Oahu, Maweke. The eldest, Kumuhonua inherited what is now the Honolulu district of the island. The other two, Moikeha and Olopana had rebelled during an ocean battle with their older brother but lost and were banished from their birth island. Then settled in Waipio, Big Island Hawaii. 

Maweke or Olopana (depending on the storyteller) married Lu'ukia, a daughter of a chief  that let the two brothers live in Waipio, because they were distant relatives from an earlier voyager. Bad weather, flooding, and landslides caused them to leave Waipio and return to their homeland in Tahiti with Lu'ukia. She was shared as a wife of both Olopana and Mo'ikeha. 

A Tahiti chief, Mua lusted for Lu'ukia and created a rumor that Mo'ikeha was talking bad about her. She believed Mua and was shamed. So she had her private parts covered in tight cordage by her attendants. Like a chastity belt. So that Mo'ikeha could not have sex with her. Instead of fighting with her, he chose to leave Tahiti and return to Hawaii again. Leaving his brother and his wife. He also left his son from another Tahitian woman, La'a. When he could no longer see his house pole from the ocean, he is said to have chose to forget everything he left behind.

After stopping off at every island in Hawaii and leaving members of his crew on each. To symbolically attach them to place names on each island. Mo'ikeha settled in Kauai and married two daughters of the chief of Wailua, Puna. Mo'ikeha became ali'i of Kauai after the death of Puna. He had more sons, the youngest being Kila. When Mo'ikeha was very old, he missed his son La'a and requested for Kila to go and bring him back before Mo'ikeha died. Kila sailed to Tahiti and had the lying chief Mua that caused his father to leave, killed. Then brought La'a back from Tahiti (Kahiki as pronounced in Hawaii), which explains his name La'amaikahiki La'a-From-Tahiti.La'a heard stories of Oahu being the most fertile island with many fishponds.

La'amaikahiki arrived to Oahu first. Offshore of Hanauma Bay, a man living there named Ha'ikamalama heard chants from the sea and drumming coming from La'a's voyaging canoe. While raised in Tahihi La'a learned about the hula and the musical instruments used for it during different heiau traditions than that of Hawaii. Ha'ikamalama followed the canoe by land. First to Makapuu and then to Kaneohe Bay. All the while listening and learning the melodies from the sounds on the canoe.

Once La'a came to land inside of Kaneohe Bay. Ha'ikamalama ran to his canoe offshore and beat the same songs with his finger tips on his own chest. He also knew La'a and his crew by name because of the chants they sung at sea. La'a was so amazed that he left sands that brought from Tahiti at the exact spot he landed. Thus giving the place name as The Sands of La'a, Na One A La'a!

Story two

"It was in January, 1737, that the two hosts (Alapai and Peleiohoalani) met, splendidly dressed in cloaks of bird feathers and in helmet-shaped head coverings beautifully decorated with feathers of birds. Red feather cloaks were seen from all sides, both chiefs were attired in a way to aspire admiration and awe, and the day was one of rejoicing as that of the ending of a dreadful conflict. So it was that Peleioholani and Alapai met at Naonealaa in Kaneohe. The canoes were lined up from Ki'i at Mokapu to Naonealaa and there on the shore line they remained, Alapai alone going on shore. The chiefs of Oahu and Kauai and the fighting men and the country people remained inland, the chief Peleioholani alone advancing. Between the two chiefs stood the counselor. Naili first addressed Peleioholani and said, "When you and Alapai meet, if he embraces and kisses you let Alapai put his arms below yours, lest he gain the victory over you. " This is therefore to this day the practice of the bone-breaking wrestlers at Kapua and Naonealaa. Alapai declared an end of war with all things as they were before, the chiefs of Maui and Molokai to be at peace with those of Oahu and Kauai; so also those of Hawaii. Thus ended the meeting of Peleioholani with Alapai. - Historian S.M. Kamakau

The meeting of Peleioholani and Alapainui, which ended a war that would have engulfed the all kingdoms of the Hawaiian islands. Was quelled because the young chiefs Kalaniopuu and Keoua were on Alapainui's side but also legitimate sons of Peleioholani.

The two rulers met again during a failed uprising against Kamehameha Nui on Maui. As they both supported different sides, and again they both made peace and withdrew from battle.

Native Hawaiian Arts and Culture Expo

There was a free event this past Sunday hosted at OHA's, Na Lama Kukui off of Nimitz Hwy. Formally Gentry Design Center. There still are a few design offices there but some of it has been converted to OHA's Honolulu headquarters. Their reception area is pretty nice showing all monarchs from Kamehameha to Liliuokalani framed on the wall. The BigAss Fan Co. Haiku fans are some big dollar examples of fans there. I'm sure a nearby interior designer made some good money on with that sale. I myself would possibly have recommended a Monte Carlo Minimalist Fan or Minka Aire Artemis but hey, no one asks me!

There is a separate conference hall with some nice traditional Hawaiian decor as well as an indoor breadfruit tree growing in a pot. One day I'll try to visit inside when they're open!  

Aaron Kawai'ae'a's Kalo D2 from his Kalo series.

The best part of the day was linking up with the artist/lecturer/historian Brooke Kapukuniahi Parker. The fist painting of his that caught my attention was his depiction of Manono and Kekuaokalani during the Battle of Kuamo'o. There are preservation efforts trying to keep development away from the Kuamo'o burials.  Please help if you can!

Brooke is a very thorough guy and when he first committed to practicing painting prominent people from our history. He actually made a check list of the ones he wanted to do in the beginning of this venture.

He has done vigorous research and meditation on his subjects. This is where his historian side kicks in. He has family trees compiled of relationships between royalty from each island. He and I totally hit it off that day and we were fist bumping each other because of the interest and info we both had about certain events and people. I look up to him and I will definitely be contacting him in the future to follow up on topics we left open ended at our first meeting.

Our best synergy moment was he pointed out this wonderful piece. You see, when Kahekili II finally arrived to take Oahu from Kahahana. His fleet landed in Waikiki. Kahahana was based at Nuuanu at the time setting a net of defense in the valley. Meanwhile a small band of eight Oahu warriors made a head on attack on the landing forces of Maui. At first this small group 

Pupuka, Maka'ioulu, Puakea, Pinao, Kalaeone, Pahua, Kauhi, Kapuko'a. Were not taken as serious as they should have been by the invaders until they actually made their way into the midst of the rivals army.

'Apuakehau as the site of the battle and at Kawehewehe.

Maui Chief, Kauhi'koako'a, father of Kina'u finally caught Maka'ioulu when they eight were finally overwealmed. Because he was a little fat and then Kauhi attempted to run a dagger through the back of Maka'ioulu's neck.  Pupuka, grandfather of Pi'ilani. Threw spear at the bidding of Maka'ioulu and he dodged it just as it approached and it stuck Kauhi'koako'a in the abdomen.  But the eight had to flee so they could not sacrifice the first victim of war. Some say this is why the Oahu forces lost the war. The leader pictured in front was said to have been a son of the Oahu chief and actually escaped to Kauai during the war and changed his name. This enabled his lineage and the Oahu bloodline to increase into the future. 
This would come full circle one day when a random person at a convention came to stare at this painting . The person knew each of the these warriors names and also shared that he was related to the leader. The most shocking part was that the image chosen was an exact resemblance to this person's grandfather. Brooke told me this kind of thing has happened with his pieces more than once...

Here are the eight. Notice how Brooke painted them with traditional Oahu Lei Niho Palaoa. Not in the more popular hook style whale tooth from the Hawaii and Maui island royalty...

Na One a La'a January 13, 1737 Kaneohe.

Peleioholani meets Alapa'i

Na'ili brother of Kamaka'imoku mother of Kalaniopu'u and Keoua. Is in the center being the mediator. An agreement to keep the peace is made and if only for a short time, although not unified. There was no war fought in all of the island kingdoms.

Maui O' Kama

Last week my wife and I decided to take a quick retreat to Maui for some relaxation. Of course knowing me, I could not simply sit back with all of the wonderful wahi pana around the island. This is my second visit since starting my interest in Hawaiian history. Here is a link to my first visit parts one and two.

Our fist spot was back at the fresh water spring leading to the ocean. This water source originates deep within Kaua'ula Valley and flows through lava tubes underground finally spewing out here on the shore.

Next we went to Waine'e Cemetery to pay respects to some of the most prominent monarchs in late Hawaiian history.

Kamehameha's high ranking wives Kaheiheimalie, Ka'ahumanu and Keopuolani. The later being the mother of Liholiho (Kamehameha II), Kauikeaouli (Kamehameha III), and Nahienaena. The later also entombed here. After the death of Kamehameha and in hopes of keeping the kingdom together Ka'ahumanu married the last Ali'i Aimoku of Kauai, King Kaumuali'i. He also rests here.

Kekau'onohi, a wife of Liholiho. She was present with Ka'ahumanu and Keopuolani during the ai noa shared eating with man and women. That heralded the fall of the old kapu system religion to Christianity that the first missionaries were bringing a few months later. Although there were many that opposed including Liholiho at first.

Ulumaheihei Hoapili the son of one of Kamehameha's advisers, Kame'eiamoku. But he was also a close personal friend of Kamehemeha. His first marriage was with the daughter of Kahekili II, Kalilikauoha. They birthed Kuini Liliha whom is also resting here. Hoapili married Keopuolani and cared for her children at the death of Kamehameha, he is the one along with Ho'olulu to have hid the iwi of the great chief.

As mentioned in my first visit. Moku'ula was a very sacred place for rulers on the Maui island throughout the generations. It was a small island in the middle of an ancient waterway the mixed fresh water and salt water at an inlet near where the spring from my first image stands, culminating into a fishpond and lo'i by the name of Loko O' Mokuhinia.

The burials of the beloved cheifesses Keopuolani, Nahienaena, and Kaheiheimalie were at first entombed in a humble crypt on the sacred enclosure of Moku'ula. Until being moved to Waine'e Church Cemetery.

Luckily we took the long way around the park on the way back from the cemetery and we bumped into Ke'eaumoku Kapu. He was kind enough to invite us inside of his conference room and show us what he has been working on lately.

Here he is showing off his custom made Ahu'ula by a family that still practices traditional feather cape making. The cape had modern materials in the cordage framing but it was woven traditionally.

Ke'eaumoku Kapu is a chief,  which I think he mentioned being related to the Ka'u district chiefs and to Pi'ilani on either side of his family. He participates and is a current chief at events held at Pu'ukohola Heiau in the Kona district on the Hawaii island. He told us about a sham battle that is held yearly during a commemoration event that if I'm not mistaken is during November? Anyhow, he battled a rival chief at the traditional game of wrestling and each of the two participants walked away with a broken rib and the other a broken finger. There are youtube clips of this sham battle recreating how wars were fought between ko'ako'a warriors of rival districts. Spears are thrown and although they are padded at the tip. Sometimes the fighting gets serious and people leave scared, literally. Sounds like a great scar with a story to have though!

I asked to see some maps of the area and Mr. Kapu brought out a map showing prominent wahi pana within the district of Lahaina and compared it to a newer one made by the city and county showing what remains of them. He mentioned that he's a stickler with state and federal dealings with traditional Hawaiian sites because we wants what is best for the sites, and that is to open them up to be visited by those seeking to bring life to forgotten sites. 

Moku'ula is on the way to be revitalized. Even having it's own preservation foundation. But the direction the state tends to take revitalization to is to the natural level. To take it to the level of a wildlife preserve would be to ignore the rich history of the people that made the land sustainable and revered.

After leaving the company of Mr. Kapu and having some refreshments at Maui Brewing Co. I recalled something he mentioned earlier. He said that they do walks around the island like that of the makahiki festival. But he also mentioned that he was a part of a group that came to revitalize Keka'a Point in Ka'anapali. More specifically Kahekili's Leap. Not to be mistaken with the same one on Lana'i.

This leap was no joke with a drop of what seemed like four or five stories high. Mr. Kapu mentioned that the group he was in had about 15 participants actually taking the jump off the cliff. This is a slight hill behind the Sheraton. There is no parking so I had to have my wife drop me off and wait in the car while I checked it out. The group did pule to reinvigorate the site here. He hopes it will be opened to native groups to be taken back as a living wahi pana.

At the foot of the hill behind the loading dock of the hotel there is a small cave shelter and a site with a plaque distinguishing it as a historic site.

 Here is a small site with a plaque to preserve it and the small 8'x 8' enclosure filled in with small stones often used for leveling platforms in heiau.

The first day ended and we headed out from Kahului. Straight on to a 50 mile drive to Hana the next morning. After filling our stomachs on a non-Maui themed meal in the form of a salad from Whole Foods.

After getting in and out of "the zone" of canyon style touge driving and a lot of ginger chews between my wife and I for motion sickness. We finally arrived at a location I've had my mind on for a long time since reading the stories of Kamakau.

Ka'uiki Hill is a prominent hill next to Hana Bay.

Although its not too high in comparison to other noted fortified hills of ancient times in Hawaii. 

Such as Haupu on Molokai where the Hawaiian version of the Helen and Paris of Troy story happened with Kaupeepeenuikauila and Hina. Or Kawiwi in Waianae Oahu where the last monarch of the Kumuhonua line, Haka. Fled after being disposed by the Oahu council of chiefs resulting in Mailikukahi being the first chief to be voted into power from the secondary Mo'ikeha line of Maweke. Later Kawiwi would also be the last refuge for the last rebellion of the Ewa chiefs against foreign rule at the leadership of Kahekili II. 

There are a few other fortified hills and even Maui had another one for the rulers at Lahaina at Kahili, near Lahainaluna. Kahili is the stronghold where Kauhi began a rebellion against Kamehamehanui that eventually involved war between all major island rulers for a period of time.

 Used as recent as during the shelling of Lahaina by unruly whalers being cut off from native women visiting their ships because of missionary influence. The local chiefs retreated to the shelter on Kahili hill.... 

There were many battles fought for control of this hill by the chiefs of Maui and Hawaii islands.

The first mentioned was during the battle for power between the two sons of Piilani. Lono a Piilani who was the elder and Kiha a Piilani the younger raised on Oahu and returning only to be abused and was denied rule beside his brother. Kiha wed the daughter of the ruling chief of Hana, Ho'olaemakua. After being denied lands around Hana including Ka'uiki. Kiha went to ask for help with his sister Pi'ikea a Piilani who was married to the ruler of Hawaii, Umi a Liloa.

A massive fleet of canoes were built and within a couple of years Kiha returned to Hana with a large army led by Umi. They had trouble landing ashore at first because of the fighting ability of the Hana chief Ho'olae makua and the use of his skilled throwers of Ka'eleku using smooth 'ala' stones of Waika'ahiki.

At night Ho'olae used another cunning tactic and used a wooden image named Kawalaki'i. It was large wooden model in the shape of a very imposing man. Dressed in war apparel and holding a large club it was brought out and set at the top of the only ladder leading to the top of Kauiki Hill. Then it was removed in the morning before fighting began again and before any lighting could make it out to the enemy as a ruse.

One of the adopted sons of Umi, Pi'imaiwa'a realized that this large warrior was not coming out to fight during the day and thought that it could be a trick. No enemy could approach the hill during the day because of the excellent stone sling throwers guarding the hill. So at night he crept up the ladder and struck the wooden model. It did not move no matter what angle he attacked from. Finally drawing his spear Kahu'elepo, he struck straight at it and it made a thud like sound. Then he said, "the fortress shall be destroyed"...

Here is a a modern ladder built for access to the lighthouse on a small islet in front of Ka'uiki. There is also a small ahu stone platform above it that I am unsure of its significance. 

Around the point is a small bay that had very rough swells and I'm sure it is not a good canoe landing or even safe for swimming during these types of conditions.

While walking around the perimeter of the hill on the ocean side. Every position of Ka'uiki hill looked impossible to ascend. 

At one point I discovered a rope leading up to who knows where and for what propose but caring for the sites above. I attempted to climb the near vertical cliff, but with only slippers on and my wife waiting back at the harbor. I felt reluctant to go any further and risk falling. This will be one of those moments that I will always look back upon and wish I had climbed that hillside. Hopefully I will get another chance to visit this sacred place with a local guide that will show me the respectful way to approach this site.

The next event on Ka'uiki mentioned by Kamakau is when Ke'eaumoku comes here to seek refuge with his wife,  Namahana. The high cheifess and widow of Kamehamehanui. Ke'eaumoku rebelled against Kalaniopu'u and after the battle of Pohaku O Mane'O that was an attack on Ke'eaumoku's fort on Hawaii island. He fled with his mother Kuma'aimoku and the Maui cheifs accepted him because they were related.  But when he made a wife of Namahana he angered Kahekili II. He was caught up in a battle against Kahekili during the battle of Kalae'ili'ili and fled to Molokai but Kahekili pursued him and the battle of Kalauonakukui commenced. Nevertheless Ke'eaumoku was still a high ranking chief and although in bad relations with two of the most powerful monarchs of his time. He still held sway with those that acknowledged his rank and family ties. Therefore he and his family was accepted up the step path to the stronghold of Ka'uiki. Then being held by Hawaii Island forces under Mahihelelima. During his time there Ke'eaumoku and Namahana brought Ka'ahumanu into this world.

She was born in a humble cave overlooking the ocean and offerings are still left there by visitors paying respect to the life of Ka'ahumanu. 

There are many small caves on the cliffs overlooking the ocean. All of them seem to have burning marks on the roofs of them. I wonder what they were used for. Possibly for the watch out posts of the sling stone professionals...

At the year 1781 Kahekili learned of Kalani'opu'u's death and was determined to take back Ka'uiki hill and the Hana district from the Hawaii forces and the Maui factions that joined them. That mighty hill was out of his grasp almost half a century.

Kahekili II divided his army and they came marching from the Ko'olau side and from Kaupo. Because of the defense of the fortress and their abundance of provisions. The hill could not be taken even after a year of fighting. Finally Kahekili II seeked the help from an old man named Kula'ahola of Oleawa.

Kamakau mentions in his writings that Ka'uiki hill was taken by Umi because the guards fell asleep. Peleioholani was simply given  Ka'uiki because the occupants surrendered. In ancient times Kahikopawa took the hill and so did Kahikoleiulu. Although the accounts of how it was done was not preserved even into the time of Kamakau.

Anyhow, Kula'ahola was found and he said,"...Today Ka'uiki seems to us a strong fortress, but from this day it will be as if leveled to earth and no longer a fortified place. Anyone can climb it... The fortress Ka'uiki depends on its water supply. Cut that off and Ka'uiki will surrender for want of water."

So began the cutting off of the streams and springs supplying water for the fortress. Then one of the most dreadful slaughters ever witnessed by people of that era commenced. This was called the battle of Kaumupiko'a

Nae'ole and Mahihelelima are said to have been the only ones to escape to Hawaii island from canoes lowered from the hill. Although the later was killed at Makapala, Kohala.

Sometime after the battle of Kepaniwai, in which Kalanikupule the son of Kahekili II was routed by Kamehameha and his cannon and fled through Iao Valley and escaped to Oahu. Ka'eokulani a brother of Kahekili II and ruler of Kauai through marriage with Kamakahelei, father of Kaumuali'i the last Mo'i of the Kauai line. He set off to Oahu with a foreign gunner known as Mare Amara, Kamehamehanui's son Pe'ape'a, his counsulers, cheifs, paddlers, and even his man eating dogs. He convinced Kahekili II to make war on Hawaii island. They left Kalanikupule in charge of Oahu and they sailed first to Molokai.

Landing where Kamehameha's adviser Ke'eaumoku once lived with Namahana. He set his followers from Kauai to take over the land at Waiehu. They then made a tour of the north end of Maui and Ka'eo climbed the hill of Ka'uiki and twirled his weapon, Kamo'olehua. Then motioned it into the sky as if he was expecting to touch the sky on Ka'uiki. Kamakau's book has a reference that may elude to what Ka'eo meant by this.

The famous demi-god Maui has many superhuman deeds throughout the Pacific. One is that he stood on Ka'uiki Hill and separated the sky and earth allowing living things to grow upwards.

Ka'eo realizes that the sky is not low on Ka'uiki and his weapon cannot touch it. He sees this as a sign and fears that he may not be able to defeat Kamehameha. Nonetheless the battle brought to Hawaii island and the ravaging of Waipio and of the sacred places within occurred.

After the battles Kahekili II and Ka'eo returned to Hana and Pe'ape'a was residing on Ka'uiki hill. Pe'ape'a, a great man of stature said to be able to pull trees out of the ground. Was killed in a mishap when he fired a gun on the hill and a spark fell on a house containing the gun powder. An explosion took place that killed the son of Kamehamehanui.

There is a very small red sand beach on the bay side trail but nothing like the other one on the opposite side...

Kaihalulu Bay is on the opposite side of Ka'uiki. Still surrounded by sharp cliffs and rough ocean. There is a little red rock bay that is possibly one of the most beautiful places I have ever been to in Hawaii. Probably my new favorite beach as far as views go. I even ate a couple of opihi on the red rocks on the far side of the bay. Just to see if there was more iron content in them!

The best part and one of the most magical scenes I've ever witnessed was this Koa'e bird nesting in a cave and periodically coming out to check if there were any fish to be caught in the sea. At one point I saw the Koa'e and many Iwa birds higher up in the sky. I could not capture that image and I'm sorry that my lens could not get a closer look for you. Just know that I could have sat there all day watching the birds and soaking in the view. The trail leading to this side of the hill is not too dangerous. Just enough to keep a large crowd from gathering at the beach...

After that we figured we had a few more hours of daylight and decided to visit Pi'ilanihale Heiau  on the way back out of Hana. It is located in what is now known as Kahanu Gardens. One of the largest Ulu plantations in Hawaii. That's about right because Pi'ilanihale Heiau is actually the largest heiau in Hawaii!

We walked to the back side of the park where the ocean is and made our way back toward the heiau to save that structure for the end.

The furthest prominent pohaku from the shore sits alone in the field and stands about three or four feet high and a couple feet wide.

There are relatively small patches of stones gathered in multipe areas around the park. Although some looked like they were a part of the natural setting of the ancient lava flows in this area.

Some of the border walls of the entire complex led straight to the end of the shore as it fell into the ocean. I've never seen that anywhere else.

This small collapsed section in the wall is a very good display of the working of traditional stone stacking, uhauhumu pohaku. The larger stones form the outer sections and lock it in relation to the shape it meets the one next to it. While smaller pohaku form the loose mortar that hold in place the large stones by filling the spaces between. The tighter and less gaps in between rocks the stronger the structure.

This corner stone in the wall surrounding the canoe house looked ominous and called out for attention.

The canoe house is traditionally always open to the ocean with the wall perpendicular to the ocean. So as to easily walk a wa'a straight into or out of the sheltered enclosure from the water.

Here is the second small hale. A place for stone carving

A small hala grove near the ocean. There were trails leading into them but I did not venture.

Finally we get to the walls of Pi'ilanihale Heiau. There is a rather flat topped pohaku that looks to have been used as an offering platform. With ho'okupu offerings there during my visit as well as on the ground in front.

Michael Kolb studied the area in the 80's and analyzed that the heiau structure we see today was built in four phases over several generations of rulers. The first was a small enclosure in what is now the northwest corner of the complex. The second phase filled in a gully in the middle of two ancient lava flows and the builders made stepped walls (I counted seven) finally leading up to a height of 13 meters. The third phase is a superimposed structure in the eastern ridge following the shape of the lava flow. The fourth was finally a leveling of the entire structure. 

The following are native fauna used to enrich the park area. Can you name them all?

On the next day we headed straight for the peak of Haleakala. I will definitly return to climb this hill on a bike one day. I promise!

Here is a silversword 'ahinahina. It is the highest growing species of it's kind. Although 'ahinahina can also be found on the shore in other species. There has to be a kumulipo-esk link beween the two!

Three peaks of Haleakala, Mauna Loa, and Mauna Kea

With the last few hours of daylight on our final day. I chose to end at Iao Valley. It is so easy to forget the rich history of this sacred valley. The war of Kepaniwai and all of the lives lost. Also all of the ancient rulers that chose to have their iwi bones hidden in the caves of the valley walls and under and up the waters of Iao...

There were some local youth swimming in the stream and I couldn't resist doing the same. It felt like a blessing to submerge my entire body under the water just, ahhhh chillax...