Museum Tuesday!

Once again, I'm taking another route from the normal museum posts and posting about another friend of mine, Ralph Aiu. Ralph and I grew up in the same neighborhood and were even biking bmx around together in elementary school days. Just like how we do now, instead now we're on fixed gear bikes.

Ralph told me his family is descended from the old kahuna class of Hawaii. This morning he sent me these following images of stone work from his grandmothers home, Mrs. Mildred W. Aiu. He has allowed me to share these with you. Although we have no background behind them yet. I will try to follow up with him later to find out what stories he has to share. I joked with him about donating it to the museum like how Sam Kapu did back in the day. He laughed it off and replied abut how his grandmother wouldn't be too happy about that.

Ralph has been a inspiration to me. As we always talk about Hawaiian ways and seem to be on the same wave length most of the time. Compared to talking to someone who seems interested but just not coming from the same place you are mentally. Or some may even shy away from Hawaiian History. Even though they have Hawaiian blood. Instead opting to look forward into the future and not be held back by thoughts of the past.

Ralph once also let me borrow a book from his grandmother's library (forgot the name) that contained in depth information about the kahuna class. It even contained the Aiu family name in the line of kahuna that attributed to the making of the book. At the time, I was a little spooked out from just reading a few pages. My Christian upbringing unconsciously jumped in. While in the middle of reading such things as summoning a recently fallen comrade to fulfill a task for oneself with the right conditions. I closed the book, decided not to read anymore, and returned it.

Now I realize that I was being shallow minded and that taking in knowledge of Hawaiian History means taking in everything possible. From the days of darkness and on to the present. I admit, just like how Jordan explained to me last week. There's many in depth lessons on the old ways out there. Just some stuff you would choose to wait until your children were a little older to share with them...

 

 

Museum Tuesday

Today, I'm going to take another route on the museum post. I was fortunate enough to run into my longtime friend Aea Kauaua, Jordan. Of all of the people around my age that seem to be pursuing a Hawaiian history renaissance. Like John Prime from 808 Urban, Ola from FITTED, and Jordan from True Story Textiles. Just to name a few. Jordan and I actually hung around the same circles since childhood.

Yesterday we had a spontaneous half an hour conversation at Don Quijote Kaheka. He told me he was a descendant of Edward Bailey, of the Bailey House Museum. Edward Bailey was a self taught artist and a great helper of the native community. Much like Jordan is in his life. Jordan also shared some chicken skin mo'olelo that he experienced in his life. While finding out new things about his own lineage he had a dream about his grandmother holding images painted by Edward Bailey. Before he knew anything about or even saw them...

 

Jordan suggested for me to visit the Bailey House Museum if I'm ever back on Maui. It's too bad I didn't know about it on my recent trip there. I have read somewhere that the property stands on a former residence of Kahekili in Iao Valley. Jordan also invited me to visit his home when I have the chance. Where he has a collection of Samuel Kamakau hard copies and some of the best Hawaiian history documents ever created!

Walking around Honolulu

Yesterday I took a walking tour of Honolulu while my fiancé's car was being serviced at Honda.

 

The exact site of the Bank of Hawaii tower was supposed to be where an ulumaika field was located that King Kamehameha is said to have enjoyed playing at. In the center of their courtyard are some peculiar stones. Were they taken here or were they always here? My image is blurry because at the exact moment of me taking this picture. A security guard came running at me to tell me not to do so.

 

I worked my way to the Iolani Palace where repairs are being done to it right now. I managed to get a close up of one of the flag posts on the ground level, awaiting to be reinstalled on the roof.

 

 In the ewa-makai section of the Iolani Palace grounds. You will see a silver leafed kukui nut tree standing out from the rest of the trees on the property. It was planted by FDR. As he was the first American President to visit the islands.

 

 

On the opposite side of the grounds just outside of the old archives building you will find a large pohaku behind these ti plants. It has a plaque on it in memorial of Capt. Cook but nothing is told about the stone itself. Which is very large compared to anything other stone on the property.

In front of the ti plants is a house stone that was once located in Waipio Valley on the island of Hawaii. Said to have been the stone Umi stood on before entering his father Liloa's home. To claim his royal descent. 

The Kamehameha and Kalakaua lines are descendants of the Umi line. He eventually became the King of Hawaii island and of Maui as well. Umi is accredited for building many heiau and lo'i in the island of Hawaii and their society grew with abundance in his time. Kalakaua is said to have brought this stone from the former residence of Umi's father Liloa. To be a part of the original wooden Iolani Palace structure. Other stones in this type of straight cut construction were also brought here. Some were eventually taken away to help in the construction of streets in Honolulu. Like those found below...

 

After Iolani Palace I visited the library. I could easily spend hours at a time here or at the archives building. Looking up random facts and stories about our local history.

I found an old city planning proposal for the Kakaako district. One has a bike plan from 1983 that still has no improvements in that area to date. Another is a proposal for the convention center being located in Kakaako. Instead of it's actual location on the edge of Waikiki on the Ala Wai Canal. It's main page has a font similar to that of the Pow Wow design. Even matching colors...

 

An old image of the Pohukaina Elementary School...

 

The major theory of Hawaii's settling...

 

As mentioned in last week's post of Nuuanu revisited. I contacted Kaumakapili Church about information of the structure that was found at Maemae Cemetery on Wyllie Ave. The secretary of the church referred me to the grounds keeper of the church, Bud. He told me by phone yesterday that Maemae was originally a church congregation under the stewardship of Kaumakapili Church. The main church was originally at the intersection of Smith and Beretania. It was the peoples church. Besides Kawaiahao Church reserved for royalty and the upper class. I visited the church and said hello to the staff and thanked them for the information that day. Before heading across the street to buy a fish to cook for dinner...

 

Kaumakapili Church also oversaw another congregation based up in Pauoa Valley. This Cemetery also housed a church structure in the front of the property. Which like that at Maemae came to disuse and was taken down. Kaumakapili Church planned to reconstruct the Maemae Church but in that same year of planning. While being used as a music room my Maemae Elemantary, the church collapsed. Luckily while no one was inside. They decided to keep the surrounding base of the structure to mark the only place where a building could exist in the future. If plans were renewed to make a structure there, Without desecrating any graves. Bud told me the sidewalk in Maemae cemetery was already covering some grave and like many other old cemeteries. Once the headstones are gone and the people that remember the location of their loved ones are also gone. those graves are lost to history. Sadly until disturbed by new developments. Wyllie and Pauoa have deeper roots in history that have yet to be revealed to me before I can even try to share it with you.

Museum Tuesday!

Here's a blurry pic I took of a pohaku that looks like an owl's face. It was located in the atrium courtyard. I say, "was" because it's not there anymore. There is another stone piece that is said to have been taken from near the Moanalua stream area. Which contained abnormal images that arose upward. Unlike other petroglyphs from the island chain that are cut into the stone. That stone has never even been here during any of my visits. Hopefully they are periodically taken inside. Instead of going totally missing.

On a side note, this image was blurry because I still had my camera on flash. Since I was using it in dark indoors prior to taking this picture.

 

Nuuanu revisited

McAllister lists only two unnamed heiau in his archaeology of Oahu. Told to him by his informant of that area, Pahu. The first is in the vicinity of 2290 Liliha St...

 

At the location given. I found a hill which in the old times would have protruded higher then the rest of the valley floor. In the nearby area. Between two properties. As there is no actual 2290 Liliha St address. The bordering properties on either side of the hill top have very large pohaku decorating their garden. Some even built into their perimeter walls.

I tried to see if anyone was home to talk to and ask my all too frequent question about mo'olelo, but no one was there to answer on both properties.

 

Here a coral stone sits amongst a Japanese style garden. Full of significant stones that may have been a part of the heiau.

 

The second unnamed heiau location given by McAllister's informant, Kapena. Is on 2712 Nuuanu Ave.

A story follows that a man from "the coast" came to Honolulu to build a home. He chose the location of the heiau sited here. Against the warnings of local Hawaiians, he began to plow up the site. While his home was being built, he travelled back to the States to invite his fiancé. His engagement was somehow broken and he returned to Honolulu alone. Then died of tuberculosis in less than a year of living in his home. The house was sold to new owners and burned down after only three weeks.

My visit here also came up empty, with no one being around to answer questions.  

 

 

 

 

Just before you enter Oahu Country Club. The second to the last house on the right has a long driveway that leads to the Pohaku a'umeume. It can also be seen from the Oahu Country Club service road, through the fence. Pohaku a'umeume marks the eastern boundary of the OCC property. A fee simple title was given to T.C.B. Rooke for "services rendered", the district of Waolani. Waolani is a separate valley inside of the ahupuaa of Nuuanu. A separate peak, Nuumealani jutting out from the western ridge of Nuuanu, into almost half of Nuuanu valley. Separates Waolani and another land area known as Puiwa.  

Further into the OCC property in the back of Waolani. Are said to have been four Heiau. One of which being Kawaluna Heiau. A very important heiau to the early high chiefs of Oahu. I will delve deeper into that famous heiau another day. Where legendary ali'i dwelled, battled, and later cared for the sick and lame. Until the overthrow of other Ali'i of the island. If only I can visit that secret, private land in person. Wakea is said to have lived on the ridge of Waolani when he first arrived on the island. Also Kane and Kanaloa visited this area in creation legends.

Pohaku a'umeume was the center of a mythical battle between the Menehune king, Ahipuu and a giant king. The stone was tossed back and forth until it finally struck the giant king in the head. Ending the battle and being left by the menehune. Where it can now be found. The numerous indentions on the stone are supposed to be the hand prints of both the giant king and the menehune. 

 

Another story goes that menehune themselves tugged at both sides of the stone. One side, the Namu and the other side, the Nawa. Over the position of the stone in the valley. Some wanted it mauka and some makai. The Waolani side won.

The Pohaku a'umeume means "the stone of contention." Where descendants of Oahu's king Kakuhihewa could be truly detected. If a claimed ume ume practitioner of the Kakuhihewa line could not move the stone. His recollection of his lineage was said to be false. The women descendants would come to have their umbilical cord cut on the stone. Most likely after child birth at a birthing stone. In what is now Queen Emma's Summer Palace garden nearby. If the fathers line, that was not of Kakuhihewa wanted to name the child at a disagreement to the mother. A kahuna would come and the parents would resolve the argument by trying to move the stone. If no winner was chosen. The Kahuna could then receive a suggested name from the stone itself.

 
 
Here, behind or nearby what is now the Tenrikyo Mission Headquarters. I found these two gigantic stones. The Ahipuu St. area was the location of a fort of the Kona warriors. In defense of raids from the Ko'olau warriors. Ahipuu, the hill of fire. Was the location of Haipu. A beacon of fire would be lit here. If warriors from the other side of the island were spotted gathering on the mountain tops readying an attack. Stationed warriors already at Haipu would be joined by reinforcements on the Kona side. To make war on the warriors of the Koolau district.



 

 

 Behind the Consulate General of Korea property. Are remnants of what looks to be a lo'i. Kamakau noted garden patches on either side of the road grew taro, potatoes, bananas, awa, wauke, suger cane,and olona to name a few.

 

 

 



 
 

 Here is a house or church ruin in Maemae Cemetery. I have contacted Kaumakapili Church, the caretakers of this and the Pahoa Cemetery. For more information about those entered there and about the structure found here, I await a reply. The church is also named after a famous pohaku in Nuuanu Valley that is associated with menehune legends.

 

Museum Tuesday

Outside of the Castle Memorial Building on the museum property. You will find this stone mounted. It is said to have been from Waiawa and represents a shark or Eel god.
The shark god Kaahupahau and her brother the "smitting tail" Kahi'uka are associated with this area. As with the rest of Puuloa, Pearl Harbor.
Also in the Waiawa area are stories of the Eel Boy Pilimoo. A child that took the form of an eel to protect children that swam in a pool. That had an outlet to the ocean where man-eating sharks would occasionally enter.

Waianae Moku

After a quick take out bite to eat from Tanioka's, at the Waipio Soccer Complex. I headed out to the west side of Oahu (in a car, sorry not on bike this time) I would like to continue on an earlier post about the district of Waipio. This soccer field was where the inland fishpond called Loko Eo of Puuloa once was...

My first location to search for was listed as a destroyed Heiau by the name of Ilihune in Nanakuli. All that was mentioned of it is that it was of a pookanaka class and was used in 1860 as a cattle pen by Frank Manini. Destroying any evidence of it by the time of McAllister's survey of the island. Sadly, this same story is repeated for many heiau in Hawaii.

While standing on the curb of Mokiawe St. trying to match the site on a 1959 Bishop Museum map of the area. I noticed a man step out onto the street from his yard, decorated with rain catching giant clam shells. I  called out to him and asked an all too common phrase used by myself since starting this blog, "Hello do you know any mo'olelo about the area?" I told him I was looking for  Ilihune Heiau. At that moment he began to spew a wealth of knowledge. He told me there wasn't a heiau where the map places it on the western side of the beginning of the gulch. Instead a heiau he knows about is further in. On the same side of the ridge within the ranch property. Mr. Henry McShane continued to tell me stories about how chiefs were buried in caves on the cliffs overlooking the valley on both sides. He told me that the chief's surviving attendants and kahuna would wrap their remains and soak them in salt. A rope was then attached and it was soaked in pigs blood. The attendant would then discreetly hike up the mountain to a point about the cave they planned to deposit the remains. The chief would then be lowered and swung into the cave opening. The blood soaked rope was left on the cliff side to be eaten by rats before anyone would notice, and the remains of the chief would not be disturbed by rats because it was soaked in salt. Mr. McShane also alluded to a heiau near the water park that is said to have contained a canoe burial. I almost thought about giving him the Aloha breath greeting as he encouraged my research into Hawaiian history and invited me to return to talk story any time.

Deeper into Nanakuli Valley, I attempted to continue my search for the heiau Mr. Mcshane told me about, whether or not it was Ilihune Heiau. Driving into the ranch, I decided to back out and walk into the open gate instead. To show respect to whomever I would find inside. I walked up to two men working on a car and asked them the same phrase as with Mr. Mcshane. One of the men joked around with me about how if this were anywhere else, the scene could have been like that of chainsaw massacre or they might have been the kind of people to make smoked meat out of intruders. I laughed with them, then mentioned how I have Lyman blood from my grandfather. Tim told me the owners of the ranch Robert and Victoria Lyman ( Tim's sister) weren't home but if I came back later. Mr. Robert Lyman might be up to showing me a Heiau that was pointed out to him.

 As my day was full of other locations to visit before sundown. My return to the ranch as Tim had suggested wasn't possible on this day. Hopefully I can return one day and jam with the Lymans. Tim mentioned that the heiau was at the foot of a ridge that slopes into the valley on the west side of the stream. Ilihune?
Nanakuli is mentioned as being named after the inhabitants of the valley and how they would act like they were deaf towards travellers. Not to be rude, but because they had little to no water in the valley and they were ashamed for not being able to host the visitors into their land. As the travellers would most likely ask for water in the dry and hot valley. As a few other ahupuaa in this Moku are. Water needed to be carried in by gourd. From multiple paths leading to water sources in other districts. Unless a spring was found in the valley or the weather was in their favor for more than just a passing shower.

Journeying west into Lualualei on the other side of Pu'u Haleakala. A famed hill that carries it's own Maui and Hina legends.

 

 Nioiula and Kakioe Heiau, along with some house sites and burial caves are said to be found deeper into the valley.  Waianae is vast and one whole day trip to the area will not reveal all there is to see.

 

 

 

Pu'upahe'ehe'e Heiau is another destroyed Heiau. Located on the western tip of the mountain, overlooking the ocean. This hill was said to have had a holua slide on it's slope. Now covered by a Japanese graveyard. It's plausible to believe some of the stones used around the graves are from the heiau.

Coral and stone fill the hillside and they both must have been used in the construction of the heiau.

In ancient times heiau were densely placed all over the island. It is said that from one, another could be seen in the distance and like wise to the next from that one, and so forth. Here at Pu'upahe'ehe' you get that sense. As Kuilioloa Heiau in Pokai Bay is just below on the ocean and Kamaile Heiau on the tip of the next ridge could be pointed out from this view point. Both mentioned in previous posts. Many more heiau could have been seen inside the valley. Although most are totally gone since the plantaions and cattle moved in. Leaving no evidence at all remaining, but the stories still shared about them by those that could point them out.

Near this area at the back of Mauna Kuwale is listed by McAllister's study to have a burial cave that contained skeletal remains.

 Before the plantations and cattle pens. A humble village was recorded as being in the center of Waianae Valley. Of all of the ahupuaa on this side of the island, Waianae is said to have contained the most water. Hence terracing, heiau, and a village being placed here were very wise ideas by inhabitants of Waianae. A plantation was later made for cane. Which in turn covered many sites around the valley. The plantaion manager's home was built on a hill called Pu'u Kahea next to the stream. Where the Heiau Kahoalii stood. Also Haua Heiau to pray for rain. Kamapuaa and later Kahahana are said to have lived here briefly. Kahahana's Kahuna, Kaopulupulu living in Waimea was summoned to return to Kahahana. After disagreeing with his policy toward Maui's ruler Kehekili. Kaopulupulu is said to have stood on this hill and called out to his son to kill himself in the ocean instead of being captured with him and sharing his fate at the hands of the powerful rulers at odds. Thus ending the connection of the highest kahuna line linked with the high ali'i of Oahu. Kaopulupulu went along with Kahanana's warriors only to be killed at his bidding in Puuloa (Pearl Harbor) and then taken to Waikiki. His body was strewn on an exposed surface to deteriorate with time. Kahahana now with no favor of the gods without his prophet. Was left to the will of Kahekili.

Kawiwi in the distance was spoken of as a place of refuge during times of war. After the death of Kahahana and the fall of the Oahu line's high ali'i to the Maui Kingdom. A coup was planned by some chiefs still faithful to the old faction of Oahu rule. They are said to have attempted to kill Kahekili. Taking the fight directly to him. After the battle of Kapululu, surviving heroes of Oahu regrouped at Kawiwi but were all finally killed by Kahekili's forces. This attempt on Kahekili's sovereignty angered him and he began the first large genocide of the entire island. Killing men, women, and children. With the all too common story of damming streams and flooding them with the blood of the dead. Some even mentioned choked with brain matter as well...

 

 

Bummer! One of the first heiau I have ever visited with my dad when I was a child. Kaneaki Heiau in Makaha Valley is closed until the summer. Due to vandalism and a loose wall. Kaneaki is one of the best preserved heiau on the island. Kamehameha is said to have stayed here with his warriors while attempting to mobilize his forces to take Kauai by sea. Before his deal with Kaumualii, to inherit the island without bloodshed.

 

Makua Valley had a prized fine maile leaf that only grew in that region, Maile Laulii. Now extinct after goats in the valley ate them all.

Could this area inside the gated government property of Makua Valley be remains of Kaahihi Heiau?

 

 

Could this clearing be the remains of Ukanipo Heiau in Kahanaiki? Where Ali'i were buried until the Kahuna nui could instruct as to where the Ali'i remains were to finally be placed in a cave.

This was the location of a fishing shrine, a Ko'a beneath Puaakanoa ridge. Aku and large schools of cuttle fish were abundant in the Waianae waters off shore in the old days.

 

Finally at the end of our journey. A walled structure can be seen from the roadside. The lifeguards at Yokohama Bay told me this was used as a cattle pen years ago and mentioned about a freshwater well located under it. I knew better, for this is the site of Poha Cave also called Keawaula Cave. It was said to be the only fresh water source for the miles and even helped save the inhabitants of the area once it was discovered. Travellers from Makua headed around Kaena point would find retreat here from the sun. Poha cave was said to have another opening in the ocean where fishermen could dive down with an upside down gourd. Turning it over, releasing the air pocket and collecting fresh water while still out in the ocean. It was also the furthest west entrance to the famed Pohukaina cave system that interconnected the entire island. Before it was even believed to connect to Kauai.

The cave was rediscovered on October 28th, 1859. After someone building a home nearby moved some flat stones covering the entrance.  After more clearing, the cave was entered and a hokea gourd was found still covered with a fisherman's net and floating in a canoe...